With the larger negative size the field of view of medium format lenses is much wider than the field of view with the same focal length on 35mm. To make a comparison with 35mm film SLR fields of view multiply the focal length by 0.48. For instance, 90mm is ~44mm in 35 film SLR terms.

I do not see a consensus on which lens series is the best. The non-C single anti-reflective coating lenses seem to be the “worst”, but the optical difference between the K/L and C lenses is not so clear. Some commentators have indicated that the C series had poor quality control, whereas the K/L lenses–being optically the same–are better by virtue of better quality control.


Single anti-reflective coated lenses released in 1970 with the original Pro


These lenses are optically identical to the original lenses, but have a newer barrel design (NB) that matches the later C lenses. They only were produced briefly and are comparatively rare on the market.


C, apparently, stands for “Design Improvement”. These lenses are multi-coated. Released with the Pro-S in 1974. Has a “C” on the front name ring.


Most recent. These lenses are, apparently, a slightly newer design with better coatings than the C lenses. The K/L is a code to indicate which bodies the lenses are compatible with. K indicates the Pro/Pro-S bodies and L indicates the Pro-SD bodies. KL lenses all shipped with an adapter attached to the lens so that they can be mounted to Pro-SD bodies. This adapter should be removed to mount to Pro/Pro-S bodies. This adapter is a fairly simple rubber O-ring for light sealing rather than for any mechanical reason. I, personally, have not had any issues using C lenses on my Pro-SD body without the small adapter ring.

Has a “K/L” on front of the barrel.

L lenses

Compatible with Pro-SD *only*; these are the 75mm Shift lens and 500mm APO only.


Apochromatically corrected lenses. Sometimes known as A lens. More expensive, heavier, but chromatic aberrations are better corrected.

eBay Links

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Length (mm)Maximum ApertureGenerationAngle of View (in degrees)Weight (g)DetailsNotes
37f4.5C1801240Details fisheye distortion
50f4.5C82960More details
65f4K/L681070Details This is a new, different optical design than the earlier original and C 65mm lenses
90f3.5K/L52960More details
100f5.2C471660Details100mm-200mm Zoom
127f3.8Original38 655Details
127f3.5K/L39780More details
140f4.5C36800DetailsMacro lenses with floating element to adjust plane of focus curvature.
150f4C33790DetailsSoft focus lens
180f4.5K/L28900More details
210f4.5APO/L241020 More detailsApochromatic correction
250f4.5APO/L211370More detailsApochromatic correction
250f4.5K/L201130More details

Lens Accesories

Auto Extension Tubes

Two extension tubes–for use in close up photography–were produced, the No. 1 (45mm) and No. 2 (82mm).

Extension tubes were produced for the Pro and Pro-S and a different model for the Pro-SD. The Pro-SD extension tubes fit the larger lens throat of the Pro-SD body. Because of this the Pro-SD extension tubes do not fit on Pro or Pro-S bodies.


Mamiya Corporate Website

DiSante, T. (1981). How to Select & Use Medium-Format Cameras. HP photobooks. Tucson, AZ: H.P. Books.


40 responses to “Lenses”

  1. Bulent Celasun Avatar
    Bulent Celasun

    Thanks for the informative and nicely designed site.
    I wonder if you could also add a note on the lenses marked as “A” (in addition to others); like K/L A.

  2. Ivan Farkas Avatar
    Ivan Farkas

    The answer is “yes” to “Extension tubes were produced for the Pro and Pro-S and a different model for the Pro-SD.” The SD extension tube will not fit on the Pro.

    Thanks for the info. Recently I have acquired a Pro with 2 90mm lenses, on NB and the other not. Yours was the only explanation I’ve found for this abbreviation.

  3. Nanzetta merriman Avatar
    Nanzetta merriman

    Just received a c 50mm lens the rest of my lenses are Kl so I am not use to C lenses and I have a question.

    On the base of the lens there is a dial labled M and N – is the the miror lockup – how does it work?

    1. jodys Avatar

      That is correct. I added a description of how to use mirror up mode to the Using page. I hope that answers your question!

  4. Michael Avatar

    Hey…thanks for the info on the rubber ring on KL lenses. Had just bought an RB No. 2 extension tube and it wouldn’t fit until I simply slid off the ring. Works perfect now!

  5. dan Avatar

    Thanks for the information. I just bought a mint 65mm 4.5 I was basically just looking to see if there was anything wider than the 50mm.

    1. R Jari Avatar
      R Jari

      Have you ever has any trouble removing the 65mm from the camera, the reason I ask is because I have a 65mm mamiya lens on a rb67 pro-s body and have been unable to remove it, any suggestions. Thanks in advance for any kind of help.

  6. Jacek Avatar

    I have search many websites, i found ONLY at this site, that Sekor C 50mm has filter 80mm.
    Other sources suggest, that 50mm C has 77m.

    I make some plans to B/W photography, it is important for me.

    What is correct information?

    1. jodys Avatar

      My apologies, I had it wrong. The 50mm C definitely has a 77mm filter. Thanks for catching the error!

    2. Jacek Avatar

      I reply myself.
      I;m almost sure, focusing screens are compatible Pro/S/SD, but in years of “SD” have different marketing names.

  7. James Torres Avatar

    i have a Mamiya RB67 Pro SD.
    i would like to ask if i can use this lens —- Mamiya Shift C 50mm F4 to my RB67 Pro SD.


    1. jodys Avatar

      No. The Mamiya Shift C 50mm is a lens for the Mamiya 645 series. There is no compatibility between the 645 and the RB67. The only shift lens offered for the RB67 is the 75mm f4.5 S/L

  8. […] ages ago for my Mamiya RB67 for a bargain price – I now own the 50mm, 90mm, 127mm and 180mm lenses. This was its first proper outing, excluding some basic testing in the past. On the 6×7 format, […]

  9. fred yonley Avatar

    I just received a sekor c 100-200mm lense for my mamiya pro s. It came with an adpater ring. How does one safely remove the ring?



    1. jodys Avatar

      There is nothing special, just gently pull.

  10. Dennis Avatar

    Great website, it’s been very helpful as I begin learning about my new RB67. Just a note, there is a 127mm f/3.8 Sekor NB lens. I don’t have any details as to weight and etc., but I have one sitting on my camera so I know it exists!

  11. Anthony Oresteen Avatar
    Anthony Oresteen

    Nice table! Great info in a single location.

    I’d add the fiter size of each lens and the proper Mamiya lens hood for them.


  12. FPL Avatar

    There are (at lest) two versions of distance scale plate on Pro-SD bodies – later were added curves for 210, 150 and 110mm lenses.
    Do you have any idea about 110mm RB lens? Maybe there were some (later cancelled) plans to do it?

  13. Martin Avatar

    I’m wondering about buying a Pro SD body and want to know if the “C” lenses will fit OK and are there any problems with using them in an SD body.
    Do you loose any functionality ?

    1. Witold Avatar

      All lenses will fit SD body, but you SHOULD have adapter ring on them. Not critical piece, but feels better and lines up the lens in the mount perfectly before locking ring is swung over (but same can safely be done without the ring, just take it slow). KL lenses where originally supplied with the ring as they were introduced with SD body, but many KL lenses on used market do NOT come with the ring and ring can run up to 20-25 bucks easily. All the same you may find an older lens with the ring on it. Ring itself slips off fairly easily so it can be moved from lens to lens in case you only have one.

      Also, if you need to use extension rings, there were 2 types produced. The earlier fits all bodies, but the later SD model will ONLY fit SD body as in this case, they were made with larger tube diameter without any compensating rings. So a lens will mount on older extension ring WITHOUT adapter ring, but that same older ring should have the ring to mount on SD body. I would add that in such a case the ring is far more important as the longer lens/ring assembly exerts more downward pressure on the mount and ring helps distribute that pressure more evenly around bottom the mount.

      All lenses function the same on all bodies in a mechanical sense so no, you will not loose anything from that perspective.

  14. Michael Schmitz Avatar
    Michael Schmitz

    I have a couple of non C lenses for a Mamiya RB67 (50mm, 90mm 127mm and 180mm) and one C-lens (180mm). Unfortunatelly I don’t have a RB67 camera because I only used the lenses with a 4×5″ camera with a DSLR-back. So I did not ever need the shutter of the lenses.

    Now I would like to sell all lenses on eBay but I don’t know exactly how to check if the shutter is still working. I don’t want to sell the lenses as working before I know that they are.

    So far I checked the shutter by cocking the two pins on the back of the lenses to the red/green dots an then move the two pins to the other end of the slot (of course after releasing the tiny pin on the back of the lens). The shutter releases imediatelly and I think it is working.

    But my two 180mm lenses (the non-C and the C-lens) have a short delay of about half a second. Normally I would have guessed that the shutter is not working propely but both 180mm lenses act the same way.

    Maybe someone knows something about this phenomenon. Any help would be much apreciated.

  15. John W. Browning Avatar
    John W. Browning

    I am have a hard time finding a 75mm L shift lens for the ProSD. Find em all over for the RZ but not the RB.
    Any leads would be appreciated.

  16. Pietro Avatar

    Hi, I was wondering if anyone could explain in detail (step by step) how to focus and use the K/L lens Floating System ring on the 90mm and 65mm K/L lenses? Many thanks for any help or advice.

  17. Bert Avatar

    Thanks the all the work you put into this. This has been very useful in choosing my lens kit. Please keep up the good work.

  18. Witold Avatar


    1. Focus on subject as you please
    2. Read distance off from side plate
    3. Adjust floating ring to match that distance

    For critical focusing, after step 3 repeat from 1 again, just to ensure you got the best of it (in macro work you may notice small adjustment again)

  19. Brian Avatar

    This is very useful, thank you for the reference! I would also like to know the “filter size” of each lens. Are they fairly standard?

    1. jodys Avatar

      They are fairly standard. The details page for each lens should have the filter size, generally 77mm.

  20. Walter Wienen Avatar
    Walter Wienen

    Thank you very much for this informative Mamiya site.
    Have with her help my lenses much better known and could eliminate some errors or dirt.
    Also the light seals of the camera (RB67proSD-rotation) could be renewed with your help.
    The Japanese Seal Supplier provides exquisite quality.
    Yours sincerely …… FILMFRITZE

  21. Peter Love Avatar
    Peter Love

    Hi, I have an RB67 Pro SD, the 90mm K/L lens when in place on the camera is wobbly on the section adjacent to the locking collar, it is the same if I try it with just the end cap in place, is this normal ?, the other two lenses I have 127mm and 180mm are fine, no movement at all, any suggestions chaps.
    Thank you.

    1. BJ Kroppe Avatar
      BJ Kroppe

      No, a wobbly lens is not normal. Options are to buy another one, have it repaired, or simply use your 127mm lens in its place, the focal lengths are not very different.

  22. Caius Avatar

    So I’m a bit confused. If I get a Pro SD body, will I be limited to a certain kind of lenses (of which there are more of or are better) ? Like the C lenses ?

    1. Jody Avatar

      Actually, the opposite. The Pro-SD is compatible with every single lens in the system. Pro and Pro-S bodies are compatible with all lenses except the 75mm Shift lens and 500mm APO only. Some of the newer K/L lenses have a small metal collar that is easily removed if trying to use them on an older body.

      Pro-SD is definitely the preferred body, even if you don’t plan on using either of those two exclusive lenses.

  23. Normand Blais Avatar

    I want to know what means ”A” on K/L lens?


    1. jodys Avatar

      I think you are looking for

      Apochromatically corrected lenses. Sometimes known as A lens. More expensive, heavier, but chromatic aberrations are better corrected.

  24. Torrance Avatar

    Hey I recently purchased a 65 mm sekor original lens and was told that they do not separate? Is this true?

  25. Ryan Avatar


    Im using a RB67 ProSD body, with a 90mm kl lens (both in excellent condition). Lens fits perfect and seemingly performs as it should until i noticed the leaf shutter firing instantly on the lens no matter the setting thus resulting in the film never getting exposed. I am sure i did everything right i took it to the shop and they put the lens on a Rz67 pro ii and the leaf shutter worked perfectly. Not sure where to go at this point i feel like i need an adapter ring of some sort to fix this issue but i cant find this issue anywhere else online.

    Any tips or help is appreciated

  26. Stephan Avatar

    Super cool list, thank you very much!

    1. jodys Avatar

      You are welcome!

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